Saturday, September 03, 2011

If only walls could talk

I can’t begin this account of my holiday without first giving you a little background information, much as it pains me to do so.

As I walked through the streets and markets of Luxor it was impossible not to sense tension in the air. There was nothing I could put my finger on, but it’s evident that following the revolution of February this year things are far from calm. Since President Mubarak stepped down, Egypt has been under military rule. Police brutality was considered to be one of the main motives behind the uprising and they disappeared from the streets for a while, but since their return they have been treated with very little respect.

In large conurbations such as Cairo and Aswan much of the population are employed in industry and the public sector. Luxour however is almost totally dependent on tourism. At the time when most families were planning their holidays earlier this year, Egypt was seen as a place to avoid especially as many tourists were among the 846 people who were killed and the 6000 injured in February. As a result, tourists are very scarce and it was therefore not surprising that the hassle factor for which Egypt is notorious was ten times worse than previously! My hotel, one of the more prestigious resorts in Luxor, was no more than 20% full. This time last year there wasn’t a bed to be had. I saw owners of souvenir shops sitting disconsolate on their doorsteps; the horse-drawn caliches stood idle, and most of the restaurants were empty. I spoke to the owner of the café in which I had lunch hours before returning home, and he told me that he has no idea how his business and his family will survive this

Egypt has put up with a lot since it came into being in 3150 BC. Having originally been ruled by the Pharaohs, it was later to become Persian. Then Alexander the Great came and conquered Egypt and so its Greek period started. Then along came the Romans! This chequered history has of course provided Upper Egypt with a wealth of history, traces of which today litter the landscape. I chose to visit Luxor in order to visit many of the sites which have earned this region the title ‘the world’s greatest open air museum’.  Join me as I give you an idea of what I experienced.

If only walls could talk

I’ve seen temples in most of the countries I’ve visited. But the temples I saw in and around Luxor took me to another level! It’s hard if not impossible to appreciate the fact that these enormous sanctuaries were constructed not just centuries ago, but thousands of years ago. Luxor temple for instance was founded in 1400BC.

I’m not going to bore you with loads of historical facts and dates. To be honest I had trouble in getting all the dates and names into my head, so whenever a guide looked at me whilst spouting facts plentiful, I just stroked my chin, nodded my head and tried to look intelligent! Take a wander around Luxor Temple with me, and whilst you do so imagine if you will that until the late 19th century most of what we see was completely buried beneath the ground.

There is no doubt that what has so far been uncovered is but the tip of the iceberg, and excavation is still going on today as it will into the far future.There was originally an avenue of sphinxes all the way from Luxor Temple to the Karnack temples some three miles away. Both ends have now been excavated  and work is ongoing to eventually uncover the whole road.

The Karnack temple complex is the most visited site in all of Egypt. It was started by Ramses 11 who reigned from 1391–1351 BC. All of the temples in Egypt were originally brightly painted. It would be wrong of course to use modern paints today to renovate the pillars and walls. Whilst they have some idea of how the paints were made they’ve not yet discovered the secret ingredient that prevents the colours from washing away when it rains for that single day every year! Here endeth the facts! Come for a stroll.


Queen Hatshepsut temple butts the mountainside was commissioned by Augustus in 15BC. Climbing all those steps in the midday sun was sheer torture!

Half way through my holiday I decided to set off down (or was it up?) the Nile. The River Nile is the world’s longest river measuring over 4000 miles. I was surprised to learn that only about 20% of the river actually flows through Egypt. The country is almost entirely dessert, but alongside the Nile there are wide fertile banks on which crops grow and cattle graze. I travelled in a floating palace known as the M/S Orchid. It was great!

It chugged along past village after village whist feeding me scrumptious food and quenching my thirst with flavoursome beers. We even had tea and cakes at sundown! It was a long day from the misty moisty morning until sunset. My arm ached from waving at the ebullient children who rushed to the river bank as we passed. Hardly surprising that the God of the River Nile is known as Hapi! There was a swimming pool on board which was filled with screaming splashing kids for the whole 12 hours. I couldn’t help but wonder if they’d been happier playing with youngsters at the riverside, but I resisted the urge to get them to walk the plank!  Anyway, swallow a sea sick pill and come with me; sorry I can’t offer you a beverage!


Needless to say we managed a quick stop off to visit another temple (surprise surprise!) This time it was a
Greek one, Dendur temple, and it had a roof – that’s unusual I‘m told.

The Valley of the Kings which dates back to 16-11BC was the highlight of my trip. It was here that the tomb of Tutankhamen was found having been there for some 4000 years.  His tomb is in fact quite modest compared to the other 63 so far discovered. This was the final resting place of the Kings of Egypt; a valley in the mountains on the west bank of the river Nile. Sadly cameras are forbidden (They claim that the flashes would harm the paint -  mmmm) So, I’ve nicked a couple of pictures from another site to give you an idea what I saw.

We also visited the Valley of the Queens which as its name implies is the burial site of the wives of the Kings. Again, photography not allowed!

I mentioned in my preamble that I spent some time wandering around Luxor. I have to say that I’m not one for lounging around the pool. It bores me. The smells, the sounds and the sights I experienced down town will remain with me forever. From the donkey carts to the meat stalls; the shoemakers to the vegetable sellers.Flags strung across streets and brightly coloured washing hanging from balconies. And of course the heat – it reached 45 degrees every day, that’s 115 degrees in old money. Ready? Then off we go.




I didn’t take lots of photos of my hotel, lovely as it was. But I did take a couple from the bar, after all it was the best place to sit (because of the view of course!) This is what I saw.


I was of course in the wrong part of Egypt for the pyramids. I may go there one day, I don’t know. My abiding image of them is a picture I saw recently which showed a branch of McDonalds alongside one of those great monuments! I can just imagine the menu – Pharaoh Burger and McRamses fries and Tutankhabonated Cola!

Thanks for joining me on my trip. I can only hope it has inspired you to go there too. As I write this the sun is going down in my little corner of England. Minutes before I left the hotel for the airport I leant on wall beside the swimming pool and took a picture of the very same sun setting across the Nile.

As usual I’ve only used a handful of pictures within my piece. I will shortly have about 50 selected photos over at Keith’s Images. I’ll let you know when they are in place.


  1. Amazing isn't it? The Nile starts from a trickle of water.
    I remember my time in Japan and visiting ancient temples touching the walls and hearing the past flow through ones veins..........
    Thanks for sharing mate.......

  2. Love the pics.

    Thanks for sharing with Walkabout

  3. Beautiful photos, Keith. I was right there with you all the way!

  4. Simply stunning, mate. I shall - with your permission - publish one or two so that my readers can come and enjoy this as much as I have. Cheers, pal.

  5. Hi Dickie, thanks so much for your comment. Feel free to help yourself to whatever you want.

  6. I enjoyed your vacation, Keith. The photos are great and your explanations made me consider going to see Luxor, some day. Thanks for sharing.

  7. My goodness Keith what an adventure you've had!! These are absolutely gorgeous and if anyone is a bible scholar they even get more excited knowing the history that comes with Egypt and such. Great photos!!!

  8. Hello! I love your ramblings and all your photos from your interesting trips!

  9. Thank you for giving me a taste of something I have always wanted to down the Nile.
    One day I will make the journey.............

    - Lisa



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